The Prague Astronomical Clock!

By Ray Petersen –
Pictures by Yelena Glukhovtseva –

By day, Prague’s Astronomical Clock is ageless.

Gilded glory in the early evening.

The clock by night.

The medieval astronomical clock in Prague’s Old Town Square draws thousands every hour, day and night to see, and marvel at, its mechanical manoeuvrings. Although modern technologies and practices have rendered the technical aspects of the world’s oldest, mechanical, working clock redundant, it is the romance and tradition of watching the clock ‘perform’ that adds to the unique appeal of the clock with the name of Prasky Orloj.

Master clockmaker Mikulas of Kadan, and Mathematics and Astronomy Professor Jan Sindel created the masterpiece at the Charles University in Prague in 1410. Legend tells us that the clockmaker was blinded by the city fathers after it was finished, so he could not make another like it, and he retaliated by smashing the mechanism in an understandable fit of rage. This story though never proven one way or the other, certainly has that feeling of those socially and culturally tumultuous times about it.

Repairs were carried out in the mid-16th century by Jan Taborsky, and a complete rebuild was undertaken by Romeld Bozuek, in 1866, but it has required significant repair and rebuild on many occasions since, particularly during World War II, when the German’s invaded the country. Damaged by fire, it was only the selfless bravery of a handful of local citizens that prevented the clock being destroyed in its entirety. Carver Vojtek Sucharda faithfully replaced all of the apostolic figures in 1948, and the current Keeper of the Orloj, Otakar Zamecnik, credits him with providing the greatest boost to the rebuilding at that time.

It has always been the intent of the Prague civic authorities to, not only keep the clock well maintained, but to do so with the aim of “preserving the technical, artistic and spiritual integrity to the maximum extent possible”. Mounted on the southern wall of the City Hall, the clock is maintained in good working order in the spiritual and historically held belief that if it suffers from neglect, then ill will befall the city.

The astronomical dial, the largest component of the clock, is a work of art in itself, and represents the positions of the sun and moon most faithfully, as it does many other astronomical details. It is what’s known as an astrolabe, or a medieval planetarium that displays the current state of the universe. Roman figures identify the hours of the day, and even shorter and longer days are identified on this marvellous piece of engineering and mathematical art.

Inside the main circular face, is another circular zodiacal feature which indicates the movement of the sun comparative to the monthly phases. Again within the large outer circle, and bisecting the zodiacal circle is a sun indicator. A golden sun, on a long arm shows the sun in its elliptical position, and at the same time indicates the time of day in Prague. A silver sphere at the same time indicates the position of the moon.

Below the astronomical dial is a beautifully presented calendar face which rotates once each year. It was created as an additional feature by Josef Manes, in 1805, but such fears were held for the intricate artwork that the originals have been removed to the permanent custody of the Prague Museum of History, and a very faithful copy by Bohumil Cilli set in its place.

During the 17th century, carved figures were added to enhance the activity of the astronomical face. A figure admiring himself in a mirror expresses vanity, a miserly figure with a bag of gold represents greed, a Turkish figure represents pleasure, and a skeleton, of course, death. Each hour, on the hour, the skeleton ‘rings the bell’ saying it’s time to go, and the movements of the other three signify their unwillingness to do so, and their preference for their ‘louche’ existence.

The skeletal figure is also said, in nodding, rather than shaking its head, to be demanding that the less palatable qualities move on, and leave, or the city will face doom. At the same time, small dual doors above the clock face simultaneously open, and offer a parade of the twelve biblical apostles, as a form of traditional support for those who do reject vanity, greed, pleasure and death.

It is said that the clock was unreliable in the early days, and would often stop working. Yet the mechanisms were so intricate, that tradesmen went mad, and even died, trying to work out, and make their repairs. Today’s custodian, Zamecnik, is proud to represent the more than 100 ‘Orloj Keepers’ who have gone before him, and takes remarkable pleasure in seeing tourists appreciate the clock. And what does the future hold? “It depends just how long we can keep it running,” he says, “As most tower clocks throughout Europe have been replaced by electronic timing mechanisms.”

The Prasky Orloj, is unique, unusual, entertaining, and ‘kitsch’ enough to make it a tourist ‘gotta-see’ in Prague, and, as its future as an original may be limited, maybe you shouldn’t leave it too long to see?